Sudaka – rather Sudoku…

sudakaNot just the head of the catholic church comes from Buenos Aires, but also the Chef of the relatively new, but already pretty hyped restaurant in Schöneberg: Eduardo Andrés Lopez. In the last few years in Portugal and Berlin the chef come artist has taken on the not so unpretentious name of Chakall. Same as the pope you can recognise him by his headdress, in this case a turban, there to undermine his cosmopolitan vita. He named his restaurant in Goltzstr. Sudaka, a depreciative term for a southamerican. Here it is supposed to stand for the crossover of the latin american cuisines ranging from to the southern tip of Patagonia to Machu Picchu. It seems to work. At the weekends there is hardly a free table to be gotten in the ample rooms with brick-lined walls. But it’s different on a Monday, when we arrive at 9.30 pm.

Only two, three tables are taken, the rest is emptiness. The chef himself isn’t is. We are told he is travelling. Maybe visiting his compatriot at the vatican? Doesn’t matter, we assume his team has got everything under control. As soon as we sit down we receive the kitchens greetings – sweet potatoe chips and maniok with a cheesecream. The cocktails don’t take long either. A good Maracuja-Daiquiri and a rather watery Pistón. I would prefer having a delicious Pisco Sour my friend Micaela Chávez usually makes.

In comes the food: Tastewise I am convinced from the typical peruvian Ceviche. The marinated fish with onion, coriander and limejuice is well-balanced, but the miniature portion is startersize. The bahianian soup, discovered by the chef on his trips to Brazil, is also a rather small version and three small shrimps swim in it’s main ingredients pumpkin and coconutmilk. My companion Gustavo is quite happy with his argentinian chorizo sausage in fairly oily chimichurri-sauce. To round off we should have had the Coxinhas de Galinha, croquette filled with chicken meat, we learned to love when we were in Brazil. But the waitress, who hasn’t got the hang of the dishes yet, serves us deep fried shrimps instead. Not to be too much of a nuisance we agree to the swop, only to regret it straight away. The tasteless seafood is covered in a too hard, too dry crust.

We skip the desert and come to the conclusion, that for the € 50 we would have gotten more, not only portionwise, elsewhere. For example at Caminito, an unimposing, but very likeable Argentinian. He cooks without a turban, but definately with love.

Yours Ulrike Wiebrecht

€€-€€€
Sudaka sudaka.de
Goltzstraße 36 / Schöneberg
U-Bhf Eisenacher Strasse

Better choice:
Caminito caminito-berlin.de
Katzbachstr. 9 / Kreuzberg
U-Bhf Yorckstrasse

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